- #5.3 vortec coolant temperature sensor location cracked#
- #5.3 vortec coolant temperature sensor location crack#
White smoke from your exhaust almost always indicates a blown head gasket, and just like there is coolant mixed with your engine oil, there will also be engine oil mixed with your coolant. It will be up to you and/or your mechanic to not just perform the head gasket repair, but to do the necessary forensic diligence to fix it for good! 004 inch) between the aluminum cylinder head, the MLS gasket, and the iron deck surface caused a breach that eventually allowed coolant to enter the cylinder. The subsequent lack of supporting material (a mere. In this photo, the passenger-side head gasket on this 5.7-liter Hemi failed because during a previous repair the dealership used a high-speed abrasive disc to clean an aluminum cylinder head sealing surface designed for an MLS gasket-a big no-no. Replacing the damaged head gasket, while expensive, is only half the battle.
#5.3 vortec coolant temperature sensor location cracked#
Cracked engine blocks are exceedingly rare because the head gasket seal is designed to fail before the block fails, making head gasket failure the predominant mode for white smoke from the exhaust (cracked cylinder heads are slightly more common, and we'll discuss those unique cases later).
#5.3 vortec coolant temperature sensor location crack#
There are only two ways that can happen: a crack in the engine (block or cylinder head) or a breach in the head gasket seal. its where i'd start.White smoke from the exhaust means there is an opening in the cooling system that exposes coolant to the high pressure and temperature of the combustion process. both a thermostat and sending unit for this should be around 100$ combined and replacement is not too difficult. this is why i dont trust the factory sending units, its been an issue for around at least 15 years now. its possible that it wasnt actually showing you the true number this whole time, and that the blow in the system may have mixed up its functioning and now its reading partially true results and partially off ones while it slowly dies. the only thing that worries me is that if it never did this before, that maybe something like the thermostat blew at the same time as the radiator (as i was saying that when one coolant piece blows, it often damages other components in that system as well).īack to the sending unit. Your measurements are well within the proper operating change, on paper. the sending unit is a separate piece in the line between the stepper motor and sensor that basically captures and transfers the engine information To your gauges (stepper motors). The stepper motors should be alright should be, but i have seen many go out around 160-180k miles in the form of cluster failure. This is primarily why I'm worried, because I wouldnt think swapping a part would change the trucks behavior, but the cooling system is something im not knowledgeable in yet, so thats why I came here, to know if that change in behavior was something to be concerned with, or 197 is going to be the new average operating temperature, even though the only thing I replaced was the radiator The truck did not used to have this happen, it would stay consistently at 187 no matter what, and almost never went past 200. When I idle, the truck goes up to about 207 and thats when the fans kick in and drop temps to the high 180s, where it steadily creeps up to 197 and stays there. My fans seem to be running okay, but yes, that is happening that the engine cools more as I drive. I suspected there was air in the system, so I did my best to bleed it and it feels like it helped, but the truck isn't acting as it did before. Honestly, I did not check other connections other then to ensure there were no leakages, which there weren't. Is the Sending Unit the same thing as the gauge's stepper motor?
Should I be worried? What can I do to get it back to its usual temps, or what could be causing the increased average? I was happy with it, and even when idling for long periods of time, the truck would never go over 200, always 197 max. Prior to the burst, the truck was very constant in its cooling. I live in AZ and I want to be prepped for the summer heat, and if the truck is going as high as 216 on winter nights, im not too sure what to think of it. Is this normal operating temps? Should I be worried? At that point I started driving and it cooled off, went back to 197ish. I left it idling in open air, and it went up to 216. Something I noticed however, is once I replaced the radiator, the average operating temp is around 197, and it doesn't take much for the truck to go up to 205. Im worried it caused damage, but I replaced the radiator, topped off the coolant and seems to be running fine. My scangauge read it got up to 225, where I pulled over, and let it cool down a little and continued on home. So about 3 or 4 weeks ago my radiator burst right under the upper radiator hose, dropped a lot of coolant, but thankfully made it home.
0 kommentar(er)
